2009 Summer Motorcycle Trip: Day 30 – July 19, Red Lodge to Yellowstone National Park, not much mileage, slow speeds and lots of stops.

My plan was to ride Beartooth Pass to Yellowstone, ride the park, exit to the south and ride the Grand Tetons, and then backtrack through Yellowstone, exit the east exit and get to Cody. Wishful thinking.
Beartooth pass was much more intimidating with heights than I thought. Sharp curves, narrow roads and steep drop-offs with no guard rails. I am afraid of heights, so I spent much time in the worst spots just following the center line and not looking around until I found a pull-out. At least in the many areas with no guard railing which was basically nonexistent – so were straight sections of road until the summit was reached and it began the long downhill, there the road was much more to my comfort and speeds were a little higher. Lots of traffic on the pass, everyone taking their time and enjoying the outstanding views, which were different with each turn in the road.
I was running behind time already and there was no chance to make up any time. And there was construction, plenty of it on the pass and the way to Yellowstone. The entire main street of Cooke City was gravel and it was starting to rain, so I didn’t stop in the interesting town while the dirt turned to mud.
Bonus.... at the entrance to Yellowstone, I was told today was a free admission day. No charge. I picked up my map and headed down the road across the northern parts of the park. This was the area that they had settled wolves from Canada some years ago, with much concern by the ranchers outside the park. They have done well, since the population had been wiped out in the past, the reintroduction has been successful. I saw no wolves though, didn’t really expect to. Nocturnal creatures I think. I saw a single Bison, then 2 herds of them.
Lots of the rivers had fishermen in them, and I stopped at one place where several were readying to go fishing. I learned that the fish was Cutthroat Trout and it was catch and release only in the park. That is a true sport, to just fish for the thrill of the catch. At one stop, I had pulled over to gear up because rain was falling someplace ahead and getting closer. I was alone at the stop and was surprised to see a lone male bison only 40 feet away walking, but paying me no mind. He was almost totally past by the time I got the camera out. The herds I saw had many young, it was great to see them nursing and being prodded along by mom. I was lent some binoculars for a minute, they helped with the view immensely.
I made the first junction and there was a lodge there – Roosevelt Lodge. It had cabins for rent (no vacancy) and a restaurant. I had lunch there while I read the map and literature with it. I planned my preferred route that would take me to the more interesting things and headed off. No point in trying to make time... no sooner do you pass a car and you are on the next.. so just go with the flo (I know someone who likes that expression... LOL) right Tannis?
I gassed up at Canyon Village, found out about construction on my route and pondered if it was a serious as they said it could be. It wasn’t. Over to Norris and south towards Madison is where the construction was, and it was down to a single lane with a flagman. My line, I hardly had to wait, but on the other side there was a sizable long line waiting. The route was paved, they just had one lane and the shoulder tore up. A lot of traffic turned off at Madison, for the west gate to the park. Traffic went well after and the sun came out, making my rain gear unnecessary.
Soon enough I got to the Lower Geyser Basin and an area called the Paint Pots. There was along boardwalk to check out various areas of deposits and steam rising from the earth. Hard to describe, but the ground was like boiling mud, with some steam vents and one area where there was just a rush of hot air whistling out of the ground constantly. Interesting exhibit, and a repeat of my 2005 trip there. After, I headed for Old Faithful Geyser. Found the jammed parking lot (I love parking my bike, there is always a spot close and an area for motorcycles). I was in good time, the Geyser was scheduled to do it’s thing in less than 15 minutes. It was on time (this time) and I videoed the eruption and also a few shots of it. As in 2005, the skies were grey when I was there. The blue sky makes for a better contrast. The viewing area was full, maybe 2000 people there I would guess. It wasn’t even fully over when people make for the parking lot to leave. I waited for the full performance, then got to my bike, and just drove a short distance to the shops. I bought my first souvenir of the trip, a Yellowstone t-shirt.
I began to think about the crowded campground (all full I saw) and wondered where I would end up. It was now almost 6 PM and getting to the Grand Tetons would make for a late chance at Camping. I rode to the next village in Yellowstone and headed for the campground. There were no signs saying full, but the parking attendant said they were jammed. I was undeterred and parked, waited at the registration desk (4 wickets and still a 10 minute wait) I was in luck so the lady made it sound and I got a site. I joked a little about tomorrow being my birthday, and she laughed and wished me a good one.
I found my site, set up camp and headed into the village for food, where there were 3 places to eat.... a proper dining room, a grocery with a diner, and another place I never located that was supposed to sell pizza and pasta foods. I settled on the grocery store diner and was not disappointed, though the menu was quite limited, the Grilled chicken and fries was very good... and not expensive. I also shopped in the store for snacks, beer and fruit. Almost bought another Tee shirt, a biker themed one about riding Yellowstone, but passed on it. I will regret it later I am sure. I could use a new long sleeved shirt, the denim one I am wearing is so dirty and stained, I am sure It will take some effort to salvage it at home. Back at camp, I ate the bananas, had a beer and started writing in the journal, but got distracted by a campfire at the next site, and invited myself to sit with the lady – Laurie and her son Ben (about 11 years old). They were playing a game similar to rummy, only with tiles. A cross between rummy and scrabble. – More like rummy – just no cards. After they finished a game, I joined in on another. Having 3 instead of 2 playing changes the dimensions of the game somewhat... for the better. It was fun entertainment and pleasant to have someone to talk to – even Ben was a fun kid. After, I returned to my picnic table and completed this journal, and went back and added some detail forgotten from yesterday. I do now have a route planned to Rapid City via Cody and Custer’s Park, so I am satisfied I will fit that in. We will see. The route also minimizes the super slab riding, which is efficient, but somehow less interesting than the back roads. As it is bedtime, I hear thunder rumbling in the distance. It is chilly tonight, and rained lightly several times all day, but nothing serious except once when it blew hard, but was over in 15 minutes. Time to call it a night. Typing by flashlight at a picnic table, the entire campground settled some time ago. Quiet here, a contrast to last night.

a lot of photos - every turn had a spectaular view. and I only inserted about half the photos I took.

Beartooth Pass route